Traveling in Atlantic Canada
Here is a map, a small slice of the Atlantic areas of Canada. Once upon a time, I drove along this ring route from Halifax to Halifax clockwise. This is about 1,500 kilometers, not much per week. I then bought for this trip the first camera in my life. Learned to push the button. Filmed by primacy, of course, not that, not there and not there. A lot of myself in the frame and very little of the world. About the “littered horizon” and say no. They all started like that, probably. Now you have to steal frames anywhere, in order to finish the story to some reasonable framework. And, since you don’t especially want to engage in piracy on an especially large scale, you just have to tell more. There will be a lot of text.
Between the Nova Scotia Peninsula and the mainland, on which the province of New Brunswick is located, there is a wonder of the world – Bay of Fundy. Due to the amazing shape of the bay, resembling a narrowing funnel, the height of the tidal wave in the narrowest places reaches 16-17 meters under normal conditions. This is a six-story house. Here, in the Bay of Fundy, in 1869, with an hurricane wind, an absolute record of the tidal wave height in the world was recorded: 21.6 meters. Then quite a lot of people died. The average volume of water pumped through the bay at each tide is 115 billion tons. And so twice a day. An amazing feature of the Bay of Fundy gave rise to an incredible amount of natural phenomena: the current rivers, rocky tormented shores, many-kilometer-long salt marshes, precious stones and fossils that the ocean constantly throws ashore, and other curious charms. In addition, the area is perfectly deserted.
Both the States and Canada are the same. In both countries, while the average state / province is larger than a decent European country, there are several dwarf provinces on the Atlantic coast. The first immigrants landed there immediately after Columbus. So, the oldest city in America, St. John’s, founded in 1583, is located in Newfoundland. Hot Spaniards preferred the southern regions of the mainland, but the French, Scots, Irish and other Vikings decided to explore the north. The first to Nova Scotia came the Huguenots expelled from France. They liked the area so much that they called it Acadia. Somehow this word is connected with paradise. Descendants of the coastal French speak Near French and call themselves Acadians – Acadian. Just ten years later, the British landed in Nova Scotia, more precisely, the Scots in skirts-kilts. In the 17th century, Her Majesty’s subjects were very active. The French were beaten wherever they were found. The war lasted about 50 years. The French drew the Indians to their side, but this did not help them. They saved Quebec for a while, but lost the coast. Monuments to the heroes of that war on both sides stand next to each other. On the monument to the French heroes, the text of the explanatory tablets is first in French, then in English. On the monument to the British heroes standing three meters away, of course, the other way around. From the signatures to the monuments it is not entirely clear with whom the heroes fought at the same time in the same place. Tolerance, their mother …
But all this will be in the second part, as well as another striking natural phenomenon – Magnetic Hill in Moncton. And today, we’ll gouge along the southern coast of Nova Scotia from Halifax to Digby.
The Atlantic coast of Canada is very poor. People here live off fish, lobsters and summer tourism. Tourists are attracted by the rich untouched nature. In summer, whales and seals come to these places, they have a summer residence here. The whales are large, up to 15 meters, and they are very willing to pose for people. To see a whale and not die – I would have formulated my little childhood dream. To this day, the dream has not come true: this idea has ceased to seem interesting to me.
Halifax is a relatively small city, quite clean, the central part is located on a cliff that descends to the bay. Nice two-story houses and neat churches are no different from the Canadian provincial buildings. Upstairs over the cliff is the Citadel – a small fortress, as in the “Captain’s Daughter”. She is still guarded by brave Scots in plaid skirts and furry hats. At noon, in a small courtyard of the Citadel, a skirt guard divorces. This we did not see, we arrived at three in the afternoon. Built according to the rules of fortification art in accordance with the theory of the famous German military strategist Vauban (who remembers the film “Peter the Great”? Simonov after the defeat near Narva yells at German generals: “Vauban, Vauban …” It turns out that this is a real person, engineer and a fortifier, recognized authority in the 17-18th century), the Citadel was not able to test the author’s theories in practice: no one ever conquered her, her guns never fired, no one ever ripped off her soldier’s skirts. So it exists as a monument and a small wax museum of the typical inhabitants of Halifax.